Local Landmarks: Chicago's Pedestrian Underpasses (part 1)

(Part 1: Introduction and Lake Shore Drive)

Whenever I visit Chicago, the locals are eager to tell me stories of one of the city's most underrated series of landmarks. No, I'm not talking about the Sears Tower or the many famous underground water retention systems. You've probably guessed by now that I'm referring to Chicago's pedestrian underpasses, especially those that run along -- or under, rather! -- Lake Shore Drive (pictured left), the busy thoroughfare that more-or-less serves as the boundary between the city and Lake Michigan itself and a conduit between the affluence of the north side and poverty of (parts of) the south side.

Chicagoans with free time and cool sports wear have long been provided access to the city's famous lakefront by these underpasses. Locals tell me that these subterranean architectural marvels embody many social and cultural sides of the city, and, for the outsider, they serve as a good introduction to one of Chicago's treasured pastimes: complaining about motor traffic and lakefront congestion and/or cursing "those arrogant" cyclists.

I’m told that many of the lakeside pedestrian underpasses were introduced to the city of Chicago in the late 19th century, and that their original purpose was to provide safe, weather-protected spaces for muggers and panhandlers to practice their trade. But after decades of a booming industry, city developers began to ponder other uses for these “public toilets”.

Old-ass picture of underpass construction

Around the 1990's, one freethinking city administrator proposed a series of new plans for the underpasses, suggesting that they could also be used to funnel pedestrian and bicycle traffic towards the recreational areas of the lakefront and its attractions, thereby eliminating the congestion and danger while earning revenue for the attractions and seeing another increase in the value of property near Lake Shore Drive. The idea was implemented almost right away, resulting in a yet another renewal of appreciation for the city's lakefront and its many urban beaches and bicycle lanes.

But, as any Chicagoan will hasten to inform you, these underpasses are about far more than finding a place to tan or simply getting from Point A to Point B to Promontory Point (haha). They are also sites of art, community, politics, urination, and infrastructural progress. Underpasses are even the subject of yuppie self-reflection and humor, appearing in theater productions such as the 2010 Our Lady of the Underpass, which touches on "a disgruntled jogger... [who] goes off on the 'retards' f---ing up his Fullerton Avenue running route as they gather to pray at the titular image." (see a review here-- "If there’s a more authentic archetype of urban assholery on stage this month, we’d be surprised.").

A scene from "Our Lady of the Underpass"

Examples of "art in transit", many underpasses are adorned with beautiful, and sometimes insightful, large-scale murals or mosaics. Some murals were officially commissioned by the city to beautify the tunnels and convince passersby that the city is not bankrupt, while other decorations exist as the result citizen initiative (such as this one in the suburb Arlington Heights).

Bricolage mural in the Bryn Mawr underpass on the north side

Aside from attracting the eye and discouraging urination, underpass murals are designed with the intent of overcoming historical tragedies and reminding passersby about the forced relocation of indigenous peoples. The new mural at the underpass at Foster Avenue and Lake Shore Drive, for example, includes iconic American Indian symbols, promoting remembrance of obscured communities who inhabited the area long ago.

In addition to displaying an array of political and socio-cultural issues (too many to cover, but these include race, green living, depression, and social justice, to name a few), the underpasses themselves are spaces where such issues are continuously acted out. I'm told for example, that the $16+ million dollar underpass at Solidarity Drive near Adler Planetarium, represents to some the act of channeling funds away from relevant socio-political problems, while to others it symbolizes the feat of cheating death while traversing a congested area. This underpass, and Lake Shore trail in general, is a favored spot for showcasing new Northface apparel or other seasonal athletic wear, and without it young South Loop condo owners would have no way of signaling their success and athleticism to random strangers and tourists. As their as numerous comments indicate (see the above cited links), cyclists and in-line skaters are loathe to share the lakefront paths with tourists, parents with strollers, or any other "idiots" who loaf around Lake Michigan as if they have any right to be there (more on their perspective is here). Some poorer, non-cycling residents of the area told me that they wished the money had been spent on other projects, especially ones that didn't encourage "yuppie arrogance."

The new Solidarity Drive Underpass

Very near this underpass, the Roosevelt Road pedestrian underpass to Museum Campus provides locals and tourists with breathtaking geometric design, perhaps a poignant comment on the importance of breathtaking design and underpass construction itself.

Inside the handsome, light-spattered Museum Campus/Roosevelt Underpass

Exuding safety, this underpass proudly displays its expensiveness. It is strikingly expansive and well-maintained, no doubt to encourage a steady flow of tourist traffic towards the lakefront museums. The underpass is rivaled in beauty only by the Riverwalk underpass under Lake Shore Drive, designed by a prominent south-side artist.

Riverwalk underpass: tourist attraction, pedestrian route, river history timeline,
and mind-manipulating portal that makes you feel like spending some money....

South of this bustling area, pedestrian underpasses are far more modest and definitely less opulent, focusing more on the pragmatics of getting pedestrians across Lake Shore to the lakefront.

55th Street underpass on the south side.... ew.

Residents of the area told me that the 55th Street underpass confronts its travelers with smells more pungent and disturbing than can be described, and vehemently warned me against using the underpass after nightfall. "Hopefully we'll get our makeover someday too, but we don't need a fancy tunnel anyhow," said one local. "Getting to and from our park is the point." Reportedly, this underpass formerly showcased vibrant murals but is presently white-washed. I regret that I don't remember the reason.

From north to south, Lake Shore Drive underpasses share one thing in common. They allow people to cross one of the city's busiest roads without experiencing death. Who crosses? And what salient issues will they learn about along the way? Such is determined by each specific underpass and, more importantly, by the personality of its community.

In Part 2: "Art at Knifepoint: the Metra Pedestrian Underpasses."